Get down and get dirty

Manual or Automatic Chain Oilers.

There's no getting away from it, if you want your motorcycle chain to last, you need to oil it regularly. Automatic chain oilers I mean of course such products as Scottoilers,

which has been on the market for many years, and still one of the best systems out there. The Scottoiler vSystem, when set-up properly works well, although I find it can initially take a while to get the settings right, and depending on the location of the Reservoir Metering Valve (RMV), can be a bit fiddly to fill up. The Scottoiler Magnum High Capacity Reservoir (HCR) is a great add-on, as it fits behind the Motorcycle Number Plate, it gives a greater range, and easy access to filling. Fantastic value for money. New on the market is the eSystem, a fully electronic chain oiler a bit more pricey than the vSystem.

Also on the market is the Acumen Electronics CL10 Intelligent Chain Oiler, which looks very good, although I haven't tried one yet, hopefully soon. So what is it:-

A fully automatic and intelligent chain oiler. The faster you go, the more lubricant. Simple.
How does it work? - in a Nutshell. A pressurised can of PTFE-based chain lubricant is controlled by a purpose designed and made solenoid (with only one moving part!) . The Solenoid is controlled by the 'brain' within the display housing, which is linked to the motorcycle speedometer. There is a 3D-map of lubricant flow within the brain - dependent upon the flow rate setting of the display unit (Rider selectable) AND the speed of the motorcycle. The display will also tell you the oil level within the lubricant can every time the Rider switches on the ignition - and also tell when the can is empty.

Looks great on paper, and in the flesh, looks simple to fiil up the oil i.e. simply replace the cartridge. Looks a little less messy than the Scottoiler, but as I say I am yet to try one.

Fit it and forget it.

Well NO. I think many people fit Automatic Chain Oilers, thinking that is the end of the story. Fit it and forget it. Many bikers fit them, who don't do the the mileage to justify the cost. At around £85 for a basic set-up, and for many doing less than a 1000 miles a year, it just doesn't justify the cost. When a can of decent Chain lube costing around £8!! This is the manual Chain oiling option, cheaper, but a little more hassle, but how long does it take to get the bike on its stand and lube the chain - Not long.
This is another thing I can't understand, WHY do people remove the centre stand??? The early CBR 600 is a great example of this, I think the first thing people did was remove it??? Ground clearance? Doesn't look Sporty? Maybe not, but a very practical application at the end of the day. A lot less hassle than getting a paddock stand out. I know modern sports bike a centre stand is not fitted.
If you want your chain to last, keep it lubricated, a worn chain, dry or loose chain can rob your horse power, depending on the bike, this can be a couple of horse power. Also, there's no getting away from it, the chain needs to be cleaned!! So fitting a Chain Oiler isn't fit it and forget it, as many people think. The chain needs to be adjusted regularly, and most importantly cleaned. Yes oiling and adjusting the chain will make the chain last longer, but cleaning is unfortunately often missed as it is one of the messiest jobs that you have to do.

Chain oil + grit = grinding paste.

Chain lubricant by it's very design is sticky, which is great as you don't want it to fling off soon as you set off, but it also attracts road grit, which acts as a grinding paste, reducing the life of the chain. So regular cleaning is of the utmost importance. There are a few chain cleaners on the market, one that springs to mind is the Motrax Kettenmax Chain Cleaner/Lube System, never tried one but it looks a bit fiddly to me. What I found best was elbow grease. Basically getting down and getting dirty. What you need:-

1. Time
2. A brush, a tooth brush or a Chain Cleaning Brush
3. Chain cleaner, as with Chain Lubricants there are many out there. Silkolene - Motorcycle Chain Cleaner is a good one.
4. protective gloves - try to avoid latex, as they disintegrate with the chain cleaner.
5. Overalls
6. A plastic tub (to catch the the residue)
7. Rag or Newspaper.

Method

• Get the bikes back wheel off the ground
• Lay lots of newspaper down or rag, I even wrapped it around the wheel, as it can get very dirty, then the tub under the rear wheel
• Turn the back wheel slowly (clockwise, don't as my friend did and start the engine, and then got his fingers caught between back sprocket and chain = minus 2 fingers - OUCH. Yes please keep fingers from getting caught) spray the chain liberally with the chain cleaner.
• Then get scrubbing the chain on the back sprocket

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  Turn the wheel slowly clockwise, scrubbing and adding lots of chain cleaner. You will be amazed how much muck and grime comes out.
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  Keep on turning the back wheel until the whole chain is cleaned, not forgetting to do both sides of the chain.
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  The next part is the messiest, turn the bike wheel as fast as you can and spray the chain cleaner directly on to the chain this will hopefully get the last residue of grime from the chain - yes it goes everywhere.
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  carefully turning the wheel clockwise, keeping those fingers from the chain and sprocket, wipe the chain using a rag wipe the chain and sprocket dry.
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  Using the chain cleaner, clean the mess on the wheel and bike.
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  Let it dry.
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  I know I keep on saying it but it is too easy to do it - KEEP your fingers from getting caught in the back sprocket
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  Then lube the chain as you normally would.